There is a deep response in guys to discover unexplored places with a past. A connection to something bigger than us, that stretches back over time and space. It could be standing before a monument to a past that’s always been there. Or it could be stepping ashore to a hidden piece of this planet with a story yet to be written. A fortnight ago I had the privilege to share these moments with a few of my neighbours.
They’re a bunch of young guys who’s lives revolve around the slum as motorcycle taxi riders or dock workers. When I brought up the idea of camping they jumped at the opportunity to get out even if just for a weekend. The journey added to the experience: 5 hours in the back of a ute with kayaks strapped on top to protect from the rain; a ferry crossing onto Thailand’s 2nd biggest but lesser know island; another hour down a dark twisting road; ending in a rollercoaster mountain track turned to mud by the monsoons. Luckily our campsite and launching point far from the nearest village only had one ute visit each day so hadn’t churned up the track.
After heating up noodles the guys tested their kayaking skills. Nic, Anji’s visiting brother, led them around the point to the next sandy beach. There the guys discovered a monument to their past. A decisive naval battle was fought in these waters that prevented France annexing part of Thailand for Cambodia. I explained to the guys history is repeating itself as the last few weeks have seen a build-up of Thai navy in the area to prevent drilling exploration by French vessels on behalf of Cambodia. The border’s become less distinct now that oil’s muddied the waters.
Eight of us lashed down our stuff to the four kayaks and prepared for the next leg of our adventure. There was a mixture of fear and excitement as they could see the island less than 4 kms away but with a lot of water in between. The waves from the breeze and slight rain we headed into added to the challenge.
The paddle there only took an hour. When we finally stepped on the island the guys all commented on how much easier it had been than appeared. Most of our time between joking around was spent setting up camp, cooking and exploring the island. During the day we remained wet from the sea or dripping jungle. We managed to catch about 20 litres of rain water to wash in. Finally getting a fire lit despite all the wet wood helped us dry off. The jokes around the fire kept on till late before exhaustion called us back to our tents.
The next morning the wind had changed to now blow across our route back. For a couple of hours the rain held off allowing us to get packed up and eat. The biggest challenge lay ahead of us and we could see it coming. Black clouds started drifting across. The rain hit just as we managed to get everything stowed away and waterproofed on the kayaks. Nic and I guessed it should be OK to cross. The guys were nervous despite their experience the day before of overcoming challenges.
The paddle back across was epic. As soon as we cleared the shelter of our island the wind did it’s best to drift us off course. The only danger was we’d drift into a different part of the coast. However it was difficult to stay on course without the nose swinging around. Half way there the rain pelted down reducing visibility to 100m. We could only guess the direction to go based on the waves. I was to knackered to appreciate the beauty of it as to stop meant drifting further off course. As we entered the bay we were heading for we were thankful. The opportunity to surf the swell in as it curved into the bay was a bonus. Most of the time we’d used our left arms to paddle only to keep us straight against the crosswind. Everyone collapsed onto the beach.
On the drive back to Bangkok a busted alternator gave us the opportunity to chat and reflect on our experience as we sat around the mechanic. Sitting shoulder to shoulder around a piece of oily machinery being pulled apart seems a natural setting for guys to chat. Even better if that part’s being cleaned with thinners and some heat treatment is required. The resulting explosion showed we can never get enough of sitting around something on fire. The guys pointed out that this trip was something special, a unique experience shared and adversity overcome individually and together. They also were proud to have done something wealthier Thais would never dare.














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